I first started surfing when I was a little kid at Oceanside Aquatics Camp right by the Oceanside pier.  Going to that camp was one of the best things I could have done as a kid growing up in San Diego.  I had some of the most fun days I can remember.  I also learned about currents and water safety.  They taught us how to keep a safe distance from the pier.  I got comfortable in the ocean and getting thrashed around by the waves.  I also learned the importance of a wetsuit and a rash guard.  Cold water and surfing rashes can teach lessons quickly.

Going to the Aquatics camp was the only time I went surfing consistently.  I started on a boogie board, which got me hooked on the sensation of riding waves.  Then I learned to stand up on a foam surfboard.  As much as I loved it, I never surfed regularly after the camp and stopped surfing completely for years because I was doing other things.

When I learned again as an adult, I had to start completely over from zero.  I hired a coach who taught me how to surf, which was one of my best investments.  My coach and I became good friends.  He introduced me to other surfers in the community, who also became my good friends.

Because of those friendships, I’ve gone on many surf trips, which has helped my surfing tremendously.  More importantly, I’ve made lasting friendships.  My coach and surfing buddies are some of my best friends here in Mexico.  My life is much better because of those friendships, and they have opened many opportunities for me – especially with surfing.

The key to making those friendships was being able to speak Spanish.  If you ever live abroad, learn the local language to the best of your ability.  Nothing will open more doors for you.

One of the things I love about surfing is that it keeps you young.  It keeps your cardio and strength in excellent shape.  The ocean, sun, and elements energize you.  The stoke you get from catching a good wave elevates you for the rest of the day.  I am going to keep surfing for as long as I can.  Surf today so you can surf tomorrow.