Category

Surfing

2 Powerful Benefits of Surfing: Making Friends and Staying Young
I first started surfing when I was a little kid at Oceanside Aquatics Camp right by the Oceanside pier.  Going to that camp was one of the best things I could have done as a kid growing up in San Diego.  I had some of the most fun days I can remember.  I also learned...
Surfing, Playing the Guitar, and Other Grievous Crimes Against Humanity
I always imagined that my life would be much better without a job.  It turns out that it is.  It's much better.  It's so much better that I never want to have another job again.  The job that I want is no job.  This doesn't make me a bum.  It makes me the opposite of...
The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf
2020 has been a banner year for me.  I'm realizing my dream of living in Mexico and learning Spanish.  I live right, smack on the Pacific Ocean.  I hear the waves crashing when I fall asleep at night, then I wake up and ride them.  I finally learned how to surf here,...
The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

2020 has been a banner year for me.  I'm realizing my dream of living in Mexico and learning Spanish.  I live right, smack on the Pacific Ocean.  I hear the waves crashing when I fall asleep at night, then I wake up and ride them.  I finally learned how to surf here,...

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Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning To Surf I've spent 2020 almost entirely in rural Ghana and Mexico.  I've been bitten by some mosquitos during that time, but no bug bit me as hard as the surfing bug.  I live a 10-minute walk from the Pacific Ocean and have been learning to surf over the past...

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