Category

Stories

Big Waves and Blank Pages: Chosen Battles of a Surf Writer
Big Waves and Blank Pages: Chosen Battles of a Surf Writer   Why I surf   The reasons why I surf go back to when I was a kid.  I am from San Diego, and I am a product of my environment as much as anyone else is.   As far as I can remember, my...
Reflecting on Model Citizen: The Book I Didn’t Publish
Reflecting on Model Citizen: The Book I Didn't Publish   I wrote a book I never published and probably never will. At the time, I considered it a failure.  But that book wasn't meant to make me famous. It wasn't meant to launch me into the stratosphere with Mark...
Found Footage: Muay Thai Fight (Jan. 19, 2014)
My 3rd Muay Thai Fight (January 19, 2014)   I remember going into this fight and thinking I was going to die. I was still working full-time as a lawyer. "Stressed'' and ''burned out'' don't even begin to describe how I felt. I felt like I was going to have a...
The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

2020 has been a banner year for me.  I'm realizing my dream of living in Mexico and learning Spanish.  I live right, smack on the Pacific Ocean.  I hear the waves crashing when I fall asleep at night, then I wake up and ride them.  I finally learned how to surf here,...

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Mail Disappeared at Customs

Mail Disappeared at Customs

My voting ballot is stuck in the mail in Mexican customs.  I have until Nov. 3rd to mail it in.  The chances of me receiving it before then are slim to none.  It might take weeks to get here.  It might never get here.  To say that I am hurt, angry, and disappointed is...

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Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning To Surf I've spent 2020 almost entirely in rural Ghana and Mexico.  I've been bitten by some mosquitos during that time, but no bug bit me as hard as the surfing bug.  I live a 10-minute walk from the Pacific Ocean and have been learning to surf over the past...

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The Real Reasons I Do The Things I Love

The Real Reasons I Do The Things I Love

Last night I got sick to my stomach from smoking too much weed cumulatively over the past several weeks.  This was the second time this has happened to me, so I took some time to reflect on why this happened and why I felt compelled to smoke weed until I became...

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Morning Glory

Morning Glory

Everyone loves a good shit-your-pants story, and I almost had one this morning. I have to shit first thing every morning, usually between 6:00 and 7:30 a.m.  I don't have an alarm clock.  I wake up when I have to shit.  That's how I know it's time to start the day....

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Bomb Like A Man

Bomb Like A Man

I was at a comedy show at Lestat's with my friend a while back, and the comedian onstage told a joke that fell flat.  Then he told a story about how he questioned whether or not to tell the joke before he went on stage but then said, "Nah.  Get up there and bomb like...

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