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Big Waves and Blank Pages: Chosen Battles of a Surf Writer Why I surf The reasons why I surf go back to when I was a kid. I am from San Diego, and I am a product of my environment as much as anyone else is. As far as I can remember, my...
Reflecting on Model Citizen: The Book I Didn't Publish I wrote a book I never published and probably never will. At the time, I considered it a failure. But that book wasn't meant to make me famous. It wasn't meant to launch me into the stratosphere with Mark...
My 3rd Muay Thai Fight (January 19, 2014) I remember going into this fight and thinking I was going to die. I was still working full-time as a lawyer. "Stressed'' and ''burned out'' don't even begin to describe how I felt. I felt like I was going to have a...
April 3, 2023 Why I Did An Ayahuasca Ceremony I did my first Ayahuasca ceremony over the weekend. It's something that I've been interested in trying for years, and I always said, ''I'll do it when the time is right,'' or when I have the right...
My dog Elvis is a chihuahua/jack russell terrier mix. He was a rescue. One evening I left the coffee shop after our language group, and my girlfriend, Tere, was outside. She came to pick me up. She told me there was a surprise in the car. The surprise...
I always imagined that my life would be much better without a job. It turns out that it is. It's much better. It's so much better that I never want to have another job again. The job that I want is no job. This doesn't make me a bum. It makes me the opposite of...
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