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Stories

Big Waves and Blank Pages: Chosen Battles of a Surf Writer
Big Waves and Blank Pages: Chosen Battles of a Surf Writer   Why I surf   The reasons why I surf go back to when I was a kid.  I am from San Diego, and I am a product of my environment as much as anyone else is.   As far as I can remember, my...
A Big Career Pivot
A Big Career Pivot   Why I am leaving the legal industry after 20 years to pursue a different career.   My Legal Career   I passed the California Bar Exam in 2009 - so if you want to count that as the beginning of my legal career, I have been in the...
Reflecting on Model Citizen: The Book I Didn’t Publish
Reflecting on Model Citizen: The Book I Didn't Publish I wrote a book I never published and probably never will. At the time, I considered it a failure.  But that book wasn't meant to make me famous. It wasn't meant to launch me into the stratosphere with Mark Twain...
First Ayahuasca Ceremony

First Ayahuasca Ceremony

April 3, 2023 Why I Did An Ayahuasca Ceremony I did my first Ayahuasca ceremony over the weekend.  It's something that I've been interested in trying for years, and I always said, ''I'll do it when the time is right,'' or when I have the right opportunity.  I had the...

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The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

The Surfing Machine: 10 Reasons To Surf

2020 has been a banner year for me.  I'm realizing my dream of living in Mexico and learning Spanish.  I live right, smack on the Pacific Ocean.  I hear the waves crashing when I fall asleep at night, then I wake up and ride them.  I finally learned how to surf here,...

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Mail Disappeared at Customs

Mail Disappeared at Customs

My voting ballot is stuck in the mail in Mexican customs.  I have until Nov. 3rd to mail it in.  The chances of me receiving it before then are slim to none.  It might take weeks to get here.  It might never get here.  To say that I am hurt, angry, and disappointed is...

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Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning How To Surf in Mexico

Learning To Surf I've spent 2020 almost entirely in rural Ghana and Mexico.  I've been bitten by some mosquitos during that time, but no bug bit me as hard as the surfing bug.  I live a 10-minute walk from the Pacific Ocean and have been learning to surf over the past...

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